During HBA the Pierce Mattie team had the pleasure of meeting KAO’s cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. She currently formulates for the Jergens’s brand. She dishes with us on the trends for 2010 and 2011 in product formulation, going green, UVA protection and lets us know that Talc is OK in cosmetics.
Pierce Mattie: What are some of the trends in skin care formulas for 2010 and 2011 that you are seeing being requested from your clients as they go into R&D?
Kelly Dobos: Of course, green and natural are major trends that won’t be going away. But I think, on a large scale, consumers aren’t dedicated enough to accept the extra costs associated with these products at this time. I foresee a real demand for multifunctional products that maximize value. I also expect user-friendly approaches to more technically challenging products as consumers cut back on spa, derm, and salon treatments, opting to do them at home instead.
Pierce Mattie: Do you subscribe to the belief that parabens are bad on the skin and should not be used in skin care products? Or do you find it to be marketing hype?
Kelly Dobos: We, as formulators, must ensure that our products are safe for consumers. As you can imagine, a lot of consumers store cosmetic products in their bathrooms. The warm, moist environment is ideal for microbial growth and improperly preserved products can cause serious problems, especially those intended for use in the eye area. While I believe that parabens are safe for use in cosmetic applications, it is hard to overcome misconceptions once they have gained substantial momentum. There are alternatives to parabens, but each preservative has its pros and cons and formulators often rely on a combination of preservatives to ensure efficacy. We carefully select and test for the right preservative system in every product we design.Pierce Mattie: What are some things that manufactures should take into consideration before going green with their practices of product formulation?
Kelly Dobos: Of course products can be formulated with natural or naturally derived ingredients and placed in environmentally friendly packaging. But I feel that there are so many other aspects that need to be considered. Examples include reducing the amount of energy used in processing the products, decreasing or recycling effluent waste streams, inventory management to reduce raw material and finished good scrap, sustainable sourcing, and low carbon footprint transportation.
Pierce Mattie: What should consumers look for in the next year or so in regards to the advancement of active sunscreen agents?
Kelly Dobos: I expect to see advancements in ingredients for UVA protection. Most current sunscreens protect against UVB radiation, these are the wavelengths that cause sunburn. UVA, however is linked to skin aging but the damage is not readily evident. In the US, formulators are bound by the FDA’s OTC monograph for sunscreens. The monograph dictates the ingredients that we can use to deliver sun protection. Current SPF labeling primarily reflects UVB protection however; changes to the monograph have been in consideration for some time. I hope that the final revisions include UVA labeling requirements and allow for the inclusion of more innovative, effective UVA and UVB sunscreen ingredients.
Pierce Mattie: Do you believe that talc is OK in cosmetics or should it be removed at all costs as mineral makeup becomes the new mainstream?
Kelly Dobos: In the opinion of this cosmetic chemist, mineral makeup is nothing more than a good marketing spin. Minerals have been used in cosmetics for years, although in a far more understated role. I do not see any reason to remove talc from products; it is a mineral and has not been shown to have safety issues when used in cosmetics.
Pierce Mattie: If you were asked to formulate your own brand with your name on it, would you?
Kelly Dobos: Yes, of course I would love to! It would be fun to do edgy, fun color cosmetics. But I’d also love to tackle skin care. You see many brands launched by dermatologists, but we have very different skill sets. It would be great to see a joint venture between a cosmetic chemist and a derm, what a powerful combination.Pierce Mattie: Do you have a few favorite skin care brands or select products that you simply are just amazed at their formulations, if so what are they?
Kelly Dobos: I’m probably every cosmetic marketers dream, I love to try new formulas and my bathroom is overloaded with all kinds of cosmetic products. Knowing what I know about skin aging, I always use skincare products that contain sunscreens (UVA and UVB protection) combined with proven anti-aging ingredients like retinol.Pierce Mattie: What was the deciding factor for you during your studies where you realized you wanted to specialize in cosmetic chemistry?
Kelly Dobos: Honestly, when I graduated from college I was not aware of the field. I was introduced to cosmetic chemist while working at a company that made household and industrial cleaning products. I immediately fell in love with the work and made the transition to cosmetic chemist. Cosmetic chemistry allows me to blend creativity and science. I am able to combine various areas of technical expertise like microbiology, analytical chemistry, and even physics when creating cosmetic products. Reading beauty magazines, shopping Sephora, and trend spotting are also part of the job. I definitely love my career.
Pierce Mattie: How has the industry changed in formulating cosmetics over the past 10 years?
Kelly Dobos: Scientists can no longer just confine themselves to laboratories. Cosmetic formulators must become savvier and acquire skills that marketers also possess. We can’t wait for trends to be brought to us; we must also be actively searching for unmet needs and offering innovative solutions. Scientists are now also challenged to communicate science in a way that is compelling, easy to understand, and completely honest because we are now more often being called upon to interact with beauty editors and public relations groups in addition to interfacing with our technical peers.
Posted by Pierce Mattie on September 30, 2009 5:47 AM
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