Fragrance Marketing: Pierce Mattie Interviews Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian (Pierce Mattie Public Relations New York)

Francis Kirkdjian is known in the fragrance industry for his ability to create and launch memorable perfumes. At only the age of 25, he created his first perfume--"Le Male" for Jean Paul Gaultier. Since then he has crafted recognizable and memorable fragrances for Dior, Christian Lacroix, Escada, Lancome and Lanvin (to name a few!) With his forthcoming launch of his own line in France this September (which I predict will be enormously successful), Francis Kurkdjian graciously took the time for a Q & A with me.

Pierce Mattie: Tell us a little bit about your custom-made business, what is the process for a customer to have a fragrance created for them?

Francis Kurkdjian: The process starts with a telephone rendezvous, which helps me to understand my client, his needs and wishes. Then, there is a face-to-face meeting when I present my first ideas and we smell together some materials and fragrance accords. Three or four weeks later, I present the fragrances I have envisioned for my client. It can take up to six months to finalize and come up with the right fragrance.

Pierce Mattie: Do you actually wear your own fragrances? If so, which ones and when? My all-time personal favorite is Lancome’s Miracle Homme L’Aquatonic that you created in 2003. Very few fragrances blend Rhubarb Leaf as you have done. The only one that I can think of is YSL’s Live Jazz made by Pierre Bourdon. Another reason why Rhubarb Leaf is so rarely used?

Francis Kurkdjian: Before I became a perfumer, I was wearing fragrances. Since then, the only fragrances I wear are the ones I work on. Rhubarb is not a common ingredient. Maybe its tartness and the bitterness do not attract many perfumers.

Pierce Mattie: What is your next fragrance that is coming to market?

Francis Kurkdjian: Eau de Fleur de Pruniers by Kenzo and a few other fragrances I have created for some luxury brands that I cannot tell you about right now. But the most important project is the launch and opening of my own fragrance house marketed under the name Maison Francis Kurkdjian. It will be sold first in my own boutique in Paris this fall and then in London and New York before the end of this year.

Pierce Mattie: What are some of the trends you are seeing for the Fall 2009 season for fragrances?

Francis Kurkdjian: I will use a line from Coco Chanel, who once said in an interview to a French journalist, “I do not know what the trend will be and if I would have known I would not tell you!” Without being trendy, the opening of my house of perfumes defines what new luxury should stand for in this new century: A sense of details, legitimacy and story-telling.

Pierce Mattie: If you could only wear one perfume for the rest of your life, which would it be?

Francis Kurkdjian: The scent of the person I love.

To learn more about Francis Kurkdjian and to keep up to date with his latest fragrances, please visit www.FrancisKurkdjian.com