Well I saw this coming. Other countries are taking the issue of eating disorders in the fashion industry seriously with the recent anorexia-related deaths, while the Council of Fashion Designers of America gives a less than enthusiastic attempt at it. Their idea of getting involved? Keeping a more vigilant eye on models. How will they do this? Scheduling fashion-show fittings during the daytime instead of after dark to give models more sleeping hours, urging designers to work harder at spotting models with eating disorders and improving the quality of backstage catering.
Are you kidding me? When I first read what their new guidelines would be, I thought it was a joke. It’s very disappointing to hear that they won’t implement any rules or policies to ensure better health for their models, despite top designer Diane von Furstenberg’s comment that, “It is important as a fashion industry to show our interest and see what we can do because we are in a business of image."
That’s where they fall short…simply “showing their interest” without anything really concrete to be part of the solution. I could “show my interest” in people suffering from cancer, but if I never contribute in some way, shape or form concretely to help aid in furthering research for the disease with a donation or by volunteering to help my local ACS raise awareness of their support programs, then by merely “showing interest,” I am doing nothing.
I certainly don’t mean to sound so harsh, however, our fashion industry plays a major role in the way we view body image. So many women (and men) become vulnerable to believing that they must be super thin in order to be normal and I whole heartedly feel it is the fashion industry’s responsibility to do all they can to contribute to being a solution to eating disorders and not be the cause of them. Obviously, the solution doesn't rest soley on the fashion industry, but I do think they need to be a large component of it.
I decided to see if I am alone in how I feel about this topic. It appears that thoughts are split down the middle on this one. Here are some thoughts from around the web and from emails sent directly to me:
Julie Gabriel, a writer for the Toronto Fashion Monitor and who proudly boasts that she has a BMI of 19, feels that designers will begin fleeing fashion capitals, such as Milan, in search of a less restrictive atmosphere. In a recent article, she said, "Canada's hottest modelling export, Daria Werbowy, might be banned from participating in such shows as Dolce&Gabbana and Versace - both fashion empires that stage their shows in Milan. With her 6'0" height Daria should weigh a whopping 140lbs to be admitted to Milan Fashion Week." She also feels that the fashion industry is giving into pressure to promote a fatter image and that those with a BMI under 18.5 are the "hottest" models. While I agree with some of her other points, most of her article shocked me.
An anonymous Pierce Mattie reader emailed: “I think that a BMI of 18 is a little too high for models. There are many people that are naturally skinny enough to be at a BMI of 16 to 18, without being unhealthy or anorexic. Personally, I think that submitting the health certificates is a lot better idea.”
Rachel Michaela from Style Bites said, “I'm outraged at this show of apathy by the CFDA. It is this kind of passive behavior that contributes to furthering the eating disorder epidemic. It's obvious that the Council does not understand the principles of eating disorders as well, given their suggestion to better the catering. People with eating disorders don't refrain from eating because food isn't available to them. And what will ceasing fittings after midnight do? Are these models so thin that they disappear in the shadows of the night? The CFDA is disappointing the entire industry with their decision and showing the public that America embraces "skinny" as the ultimate ideal of beauty.”
Renee' Lauren, a Modeling Agent said, “I don't think that the industry can be policed. I think that the modeling agencies must take more responsibility for the girls health, telling them when they have to be more healthy with better eating and sleeping habits or they can not work or be sent out on castings. I don't see any real change until New York, Paris and Milan adopt this, as well as, Hollywood - many attitudes and ideals are influenced by Hollywood.
My thoughts are that if there is a girl who is suspected of an eating disorder that everyone has to be involved, her modeling agents, and her family. It is very sad and a growing trend for very young girls who are not even part of the modeling industry - If you go on myspace.com there are so many girls on there who use the name 'Anna' to show that they are part to this underground acceptance of this eating disorder.”
Lauren Dimet Editor-in-Chief of Second City Style said, "I am rather torn on this issue. While I agree that it is awful models are starving themselves literally to death, I think the bigger issue is their age. Not only are these models too young, they are at the age where they focus too much on peer pressure making them more susceptible to eating disorders. Besides, I really can't stomach seeing young girls in clothes designers expect adults to buy. I find it a huge turn-off. It has a Jon Benet ick factor.
However, I also feel that there could be legal ramifications if the CFDA were to enforce 'rules'. Weight has always been an issue with models. If the designers stop hiring these starving girls the message would be more profound. Just as a model has the right to chose not to eat, the designer has the right not to hire her.
I'm not a big fan of regulation of everything we do. First it's smoking, then transfat, now model weight. It's our right as Americans to live in a society where we can make our own choices, even if they are bad and harmful to us.
I think guidelines and keeping this issue in the foreground (news) is an acceptable first step. I am curious to see what we will see walking down the runways in a few weeks and if anyone got the message. If not, then this issue should be revisited.
Nicole Miller has the right idea. "We bought it so we won't send 87-pound girls down the runway," says Bud Konheim, chief executive at Nicole Miller. Every model who visits the office will get on the scale, and those who are underweight by medical standards won't be allowed on Nicole Miller's catwalk. An alternative formula for models between the ages of 16 and 18 would call for a 5-foot-9 teen girl to weight more than 117 pounds."
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Posted by Shannon Nelson on January 17, 2007 2:30 AM
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